Why Beauty Can’t Break Up With Anti-Ageing

The beauty industry is in a curious conundrum. Despite the increasing calls for more inclusive language, the term “anti-ageing” remains a consistently sought-after feature among consumers. The love-hate relationship with this phrase showcases deeper value systems within the beauty market and hints at a significant cultural shift that brands must navigate carefully.

Historically, the term “anti-ageing” began to fall out of favor in the late 2010s. Influenced by movements emphasizing body positivity and diversity, many brands sought to distance themselves from language that implied that ageing was something to be feared or fought against. In a landmark move, Allure magazine declared in 2017 that it would stop using “anti-ageing” entirely, with then-editor Michelle Lee framing the conversation around the need to rethink how society perceives ageing itself.

Lee noted, “Whether we know it or not, we’re subtly reinforcing the message that ageing is a condition we need to battle.” This sentiment resonated throughout the industry, prompting brands to rebrand their products using terms like “regeneration,” “renewal,” and “radiance.” Neutrogena even took the bold step of declaring, “We’re not anti-ageing. We’re anti-wrinkles.”

However, the tides are turning once again. A report from WGSN indicates that the anti-ageing narrative is resurfacing, driven mainly by younger generations who are more open to acknowledging their desire for products that tackle ageing-related concerns head-on. Prestige skincare brands like Paula’s Choice and Dr. Barbara Sturm are embracing “anti-ageing” in their product names and marketing materials, signaling a shift back towards effective language that connects with consumer desires for solutions.

From Botox partnerships to specialized serums, the anti-ageing narrative is adapting. For instance, Skinceuticals recently introduced the P-Tiox Wrinkle-Modulating Peptide Serum, marketing it alongside its compatibility with Botox treatments. Beyond the status quo, brands like Emma Lewisham describe their offerings as “nature’s Botox” with bold claims of remarkable results. These representations reflect a broader acceptance of seeking efficacy in cosmetic solutions rather than wrapping products in euphemistic language.

The millennial ethos of self-acceptance, largely shaped by social media and movements emphasizing inclusivity, is now giving way to Gen-Z’s perspective. This younger demographic recognizes their right to seek improvement without the stigma that may have been attached in years past. Dominique Temple, founder of DT Consulting, describes this generation as solution-oriented, openly discussing their concerns such as “I don’t like my forehead lines.”

This cultural shift enables brands to return to a more straightforward presentation of their products. Clare Varga from WGSN highlights that denying the desire for anti-ageing products could alienate those who want to enhance their appearance. By addressing the language directly rather than burying it under euphemisms, brands can connect with consumers without treading on sensitive territory.

The current landscape exhibits a clear understanding among consumers regarding the potential of skincare products. Advanced formulations and an increased consumer awareness have legitimized many of the long-standing claims associated with anti-ageing treatments. Brands like The Ordinary and Skinceuticals emphasize clinical results and robust ingredient education as marketing strategies, moving away from generalized and vague claims. The approach is pragmatic; if consumers can understand how certain products work, they become more likely to engage with and trust those products.

Moreover, the popularity of topical offerings meant to prevent and combat visible signs of ageing aligns with a growing obsession with skincare, particularly among younger consumers. The concept of “prejuvenation” is emerging, encompassing various treatments before significant ageing sets in. As these consumers become wiser about sun damage and related factors, they seek out proactive solutions, thus breathing new life into the conversation around anti-ageing.

An additional fuel to the anti-ageing resurgence lies in the cultural context that values wellness and aesthetics. The narrative, once perceived as negative, is changing into one focused on empowerment and informed decision-making. Leaders in the sector anticipate that terms like “anti-aging” may become increasingly neutral, losing the stigma that once accompanied them. As Varga notes, “When people are looking for a product, they say they want ‘anti-ageing’. The data speaks for itself.”

Ultimately, the beauty industry stands at a crossroads, influenced by an informed customer base eager for efficacy and transparency. As the anti-ageing discourse continues to evolve, brands that adeptly balance an understanding of consumer desires with messaging that resonates broadly will thrive. Beauty has not broken up with anti-ageing; rather, it is evolving alongside it.

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