Over the last few years, top brands like Pandora and Prada have committed to using only recycled gold in their jewellery, positioning it as a move towards ethical and environmental sustainability. Despite its rising popularity, the term “recycled gold” is under intense scrutiny. Critics argue it lacks meaningful standards, leading to potential greenwashing.
Recycling gold rather than mining new ore significantly lowers its environmental impact. Mining gold is known for its carbon and water-intensive processes and often results in mercury pollution, labor exploitation, and unsafe working conditions. However, gold’s high value means it has always been reprocessed, and more certified recycled gold has yet to cut down new mining activities.
The debate intensified when the Precious Metals Impact Forum (PMIF) published an open letter calling out industry resistance to stricter recycled gold definitions. According to PMIF founder Sabrina Karib, this resistance is shifting down proposed standards and halting progress.
Currently, even gold that has been mined recently but reprocessed can be labeled as “recycled,” misleading consumers. With recycled gold’s origins hard to trace, there’s a risk that tainted gold could enter the supply chain.
PMIF proposed that only gold recovered from discarded products containing less than 2% gold should count as “recycled.” Initially backed by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), this definition was later dropped under industry pressure. The International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) is now working on a definition allowing pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled gold.
This has led to a backlash. Critics argue these definitions are too loose and could perpetuate the same issues. Damian Oettli of WWF Switzerland condemns the ISO’s definitions as sophisticated wordplay that dilutes accountability in the gold supply chain. Monica Vinader, a jewellery designer committed to certified recycled gold, highlights the semantic confusion in the industry, stressing the need for transparency about gold’s origins rather than labels.
The challenge remains in defining a universally accepted, strict standard for recycled gold to ensure it genuinely contributes to sustainability and avoids greenwashing. Brands like Pandora and LVMH continue to refine their standards and advocate for responsible sourcing to meet their sustainability goals. The ongoing discussions by RJC and ISO will determine the future framework of recycled gold, impacting all stakeholders.
