The fragrance industry is witnessing an exciting transformation led by an emerging trend called “neo-gourmands.” These scents go beyond the traditional edible notes typically found in gourmand perfumes, incorporating experimental and unexpected elements that appeal to a sophisticated audience. As consumers increasingly seek new sensory experiences, the market for fragrances that evoke food-like scents is booming, offering layers of nostalgia and novelty.
Historically, gourmand fragrances have featured sweet notes such as vanilla, chocolate, and coconut. These scents appealed mainly to younger demographics, often marketed to women and adolescents. However, the neo-gourmand category is innovating and elevating the concept with an artistically curated blend of ingredients, intriguing consumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike. Examples include notes that craft unique offerings, such as sesame oil or sea salt, demonstrating a shift towards more artisanal experiences.
Leaders in the industry have taken notice. For instance, Bath & Body Works recently released their holiday fragrance called Perfect in Pink, featuring an imaginative Yum-Yum cherry note, developed in collaboration with the renowned Swiss flavor and fragrance company Givaudan. According to Mary Testa-Gough, the vice president of product and fragrance development at Bath & Body Works, neo-gourmands are permeating the fragrance market from both the top down and bottom up as brands of various scales capitalize on this trend.
Sales of fragrances have surged in recent months, reflecting a growth of 14 percent in the third quarter alone. Circana’s data reveals that this spike is notably influenced by a focus on premium scents, aligning with luxury market demands. Bath & Body Works has responded by increasing its sales expectations for the fourth quarter of 2024, as their offerings like Perfect in Pink capture consumer attention during the holiday season.
Neo-gourmand scents are not just a passing trend; they offer a pathway for niche brands to penetrate mainstream markets. Glamorous examples from retail highlight this evolution. Upmarket retailers like Bluemercury have curated collections featuring fragrances with notes of dark vanilla paired with leather or amber, which are also experiencing a surge in popularity. Best-selling items include BDK Parfums Velvet Tonka priced at $230 and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille at $300. This trend indicates that while vanilla remains a significant draw, consumers are also showing strong interest in other edible notes like fruits and marshmallows.
The nostalgia factor plays a critical role in the appeal of these fragrances. Influences from the 1990s and early 2000s in fashion express themselves similarly in the beauty realm, with scents that evoke memories becoming increasingly fashionable. Notable fragrances from that era, such as Thierry Mugler’s iconic Angel, a mix of fruit, chocolate, and vanilla, underscore the intersection of nostalgia and innovation.
Rosie Johnston, a makeup artist turned perfumer, expresses how the resurgence of gourmand fragrances not only appeals to the senses but also connects to collective memories shaped during the pandemic. She recalls the comfort food-like scents of vanilla essential oil that permeated Los Angeles during the grunge era, stating, “Even though there was that grunge era, people were wearing vanilla essential oil. It was, like, a sweet kind of dirty.” Johnston founded her own clean fine-fragrance line, By Rosie Jane, and her latest offering, Dulce, was designed to evoke a sense of warmth and connection reminiscent of simpler times.
In response to changing consumer preferences, legacy brands have rejuvenated their classic scents with neo-gourmand twists. Lancôme’s Idôle Nectar features sweet notes of vanilla, caramel, and popcorn, while Dolce & Gabbana introduced a version of its Devotion fragrance that opens with freshly roasted hazelnuts. Mugler has also expanded its Angel line with the addition of the creamy piña colada scent Fantasm.
Moreover, the brand Glossier recently released extensions of their popular fragrance You, including You Rêve, which incorporated contrasting notes of plum and buttercream. Feedback has been varied, with some users likening the fragrance to nostalgic products like cherry chapstick. Frank Voelkl, the perfumer behind Glossier’s recent releases, notes that the goal is to enhance addictiveness, elevating the experience beyond mere sweetness.
As brands cater to this growing fascination with food-inspired fragrances, exciting launches are on the horizon. Shiseido plans to introduce Le Seul d’Issey, representing Issey Miyake’s final fragrance project before his passing, exploring the complex nature of sea-salt notes. Christian Dior is also set to unveil Bois Talisman, a fragrance highlighting vanilla inspired by sugar cubes and cedarwood, aimed particularly at a younger male demographic.
The conceptual shift towards “new gourmand” fragrances enhances the sensory experience and encourages repeat encounters with the scent, merging texture and flavor in potentially unexpected ways. As noted by Voelkl, the complexity of neo-gourmands goes far beyond traditional sweetness, creating a multi-faceted allure that captivates consumers.
This innovative wave within the fragrance industry showcases the boundless possibilities within scent creation. As neo-gourmands thrive, they redefine the way consumers relate to their favorite fragrances.
