In the competitive realm of beauty, terms like “clean” and “natural” dominate marketing conversations. However, a closer look reveals that beneath the glamorous surface, the beauty industry struggles significantly with transparency. A recent report by Good on You, a sustainability rating platform, highlights alarming trends in the practices of major beauty brands, particularly when it comes to substantiating their environmental claims.
Sandra Capponi, co-founder of Good on You, emphasizes the stark contrast between the beauty and fashion industries. She notes, “There’s a general lower level of transparency in the beauty industry compared to fashion.” With claims ranging from cruelty-free products to eco-friendly packaging, the report found that many brands fail to provide adequate evidence supporting their assertions. This lack of clarity raises questions about the integrity of beauty brands and their commitment to sustainability.
The comprehensive analysis encompassed nearly 240 beauty brands, revealing that both sectors—beauty and fashion—perform poorly in addressing environmental footprints. However, beauty brands lag notably behind, especially in supply-chain transparency and disclosures regarding human rights abuses. This trend underscores a pressing need for improved accountability in the beauty landscape.
Good on You’s ratings scale categorizes brands based on publicly available information, assessing their impact on people, planet, and animals. The findings are discouraging: nearly two-thirds of the beauty brands evaluated received ratings of “Not Good Enough” or worse. Only two brands—the startup Disruptor London and organic brand Odylique—achieved the coveted “Great” rating, while well-known names like Revlon and Laura Mercier scored fewer than 10 points out of 100. Notably, these companies did not respond to inquiries seeking clarification about their rating.
The complexity of the beauty industry’s supply chains compounds the challenge of achieving transparency. Manufacturing processes can involve various countries and multiple components—from raw materials to packaging—which often creates hurdles in tracing ingredients back to their sources. For instance, a single eyeshadow palette may be produced with components from several countries before landing on store shelves. Unfortunately, many brands do not even disclose basic information about their products, including detailed ingredient lists, which hinders informed consumer choices.
Certain raw materials that are staples in beauty products also raise ethical concerns. Palm oil, frequently used for its moisturizing benefits, is linked to significant deforestation. Despite the widespread use of palm oil in beauty products, less than half of the brands examined certify the ingredient’s source. Only 17% utilize palm oil from certified resources, and existing certifications faced scrutiny for not ensuring comprehensive sustainability. Similarly, the use of mica—a mineral that adds shimmer to cosmetics—has been tied to child labor, and nearly 80% of the brands assessed by Good on You do not disclose their mica sourcing practices. With animal testing already a contentious issue, the report revealed that around 80% of brands lack certification proving they do not engage in testing on animals.
As scrutiny over greenwashing intensifies, beauty brands and retailers are under pressure to support their sustainability claims with more substantial evidence. Good on You has seen an increase in traction, with millions of users turning to its platform to find brands aligning with their values. Retail partnerships, such as those with Unibail Rodamco Westfield and Yoox Net-a-Porter, help elevate the profiles of sustainable brands.
Amid this backdrop, Sephora has introduced its revamped sustainability labels, a response to the urgent need for transparent criteria in sustainability marketing. The “Planet Aware” labeling scheme was developed after two years, set to highlight brands that adhere to specific environmental commitments and ingredient sourcing standards. Companies must meet at least 32 criteria to qualify, demonstrating a commitment not just to marketing rhetoric but to actionable change.
Good on You’s exploration into beauty, expedited by retailer demand, points to a broader shift within the industry. Retailers are now grappling with the challenge of navigating and overcoming greenwashing. The key driver in this transition is consumer engagement; providing clients with accessible, reliable information empowers them to make educated choices while encouraging brands to instigate meaningful change.
While the beauty sector may have room for improvement, initiatives such as those led by Good on You and strategic retail partnerships may be the catalysts necessary to foster transparency and ethical practices. Moving forward, the industry will be watching closely as consumers demand clarity and accountability from the brands they choose to support.
