In the world of fashion, change is often equated with novelty, yet for Nadège Vanhee, the journey has been one of evolution. As the artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear collections at Hermès, Vanhee has been meticulous in her approach to reinventing the brand’s vision while maintaining its core essence. Her collections stand as a testament to a sophisticated blend of rigor and rebellion, ensuring Hermès continues to resonate with modern sensibilities.
Vanhee’s connection to color, specifically red, is a captivating anecdote that reveals her intriguing artistic journey. As a child, she was discouraged from wearing red due to her hair color. However, since her debut collection for Hermès in 2015, she has come to embrace it, using red as a fundamental component of her designs. This shift illustrates her approach: using color not just for adornment but as an integral part of the fabric’s emotional narrative.
Over the span of 20 seasons, Vanhee has systematically redefined Hermès’ ready-to-wear lines without succumbing to fleeting trends or celebrity endorsements. Instead, her inspirations draw from the juxtaposition of urban and rural landscapes, alongside a love for both equestrian and motorbike cultures. The palettes she employs reflect a harmony of earth tones, taupy greys, buttery beiges, and striking reds that evoke a sense of warmth and familiarity.
Construction and fluidity form the backbone of her designs, emphasizing a deep understanding of the materials at her disposal. Vanhee articulates this balance beautifully; actions like zipping a collar or tightening a rain jacket are intrinsic to her vision, suggesting that the essence of the piece emerges from the actions associated with it before the visual image is even conceived.
Vanhee’s journey began in 1978 in northern France, navigating through significant fashion houses such as Martin Margiela and Celine under Phoebe Philo before landing in New York at The Row. Her appointment as artistic director at Hermès in 2014 marked the beginning of a new phase—one that involves an intimate conversation with the storied heritage of the brand. Each season, elements such as silk twill and stirrup belts are reimagined, reflecting both a respect for tradition and a desire to innovate. For example, her Autumn/Winter 2025 biker jacket was crafted with stitching reminiscent of saddle construction, hinting at the brand’s equestrian roots while ensuring a contemporary aesthetic.
At the Hermès studio in Pantin, a fusion of colors and craftsmanship comes to life. Vanhee asserts that the development of collections is a long-term process requiring meticulous teamwork across Hermès’ sixteen métiers, including leather, silk, and now, beauty. This collaborative workflow ensures continuity in quality and a harmonious understanding of the brand’s DNA.
Vanhee’s vision for women’s fashion is rooted in a profound recognition of the modern woman’s needs and aspirations. In response to contemporary living, she instills a sense of movement into her garments, allowing for lighter, body-conscious silhouettes that speak to women in action. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection exemplifies this dedication, featuring a color palette inspired by Hermès’ famous leathers, reimagined as vibrant paints in an artist’s toolkit. Tones reflecting skin colors—ebony, chestnut, camel—are complemented by bold bursts of bougainvillea pink, envisioning a landscape of summer that is both sensual and accessible.
This exploration of sensuality and body awareness is also inspired by Vanhee’s environment. She describes her creative process as an homage to the artist’s studio, a space of freedom and creation where influences from various artists interweave with her designs. Aprons, a motif in the collection, invoke a sense of artistic freedom and practicality—qualities that resonate deeply within Hermès ethos.
As Vanhee reflects on her decade at the helm of Hermès’ women’s collections, she notes a preference for evolution over radical change. What began as an exploration of leather has transformed into a profound relationship with the material, encouraging a respect for its intrinsic characteristics. Today, her studio comprises a team of 17 people collaborating to ensure each collection is a seamless fusion of fashion and functionality—a task that requires at least two years of meticulous fine-tuning.
The Hermès style, distinct yet adaptive, illustrates a unique harmony between fashion and enduring elegance. Vanhee recognizes this intricate balance, stating that while fashion is a transient expression of style, Hermès embodies a legacy of craftsmanship and quality that remains constant. Influences from designers like Martin Margiela and Jean-Paul Gaultier all contribute to Hermès’ vast tapestry of creativity.
The future looks bright under Vanhee’s guidance, fueled by an understanding of the brand’s historical strengths coupled with a desire for playful innovation. Her commitment to the idea of beauty as a quest, rooted in emotional resonance and sensory experience, continues to compel her forward.
In a world where fashion continually reinvents itself at breakneck speed, Nadège Vanhee’s interpretative vision for Hermès offers a refreshing standpoint. Her work not only preserves the brand’s legacy but also enriches it with fresh vitality, paving the way for a new definition of luxury—a definition that champions authenticity and individuality in a time of rapid change.
