In the past two weeks, the Colombian city of Cali has transformed into a hub for thousands of policymakers, conservationists, and business leaders, all converging for COP 16, the UN’s esteemed biennial nature-focused summit. As the world faces an ecological crisis that poses major threats to global supply chains and vital natural resources, the fashion industry is under increased scrutiny for its impact on the environment.
Historically overshadowed by its climate-focused counterpart, “nature COP” is gaining traction among industries proactively addressing their environmental footprints. The urgency of the topic cannot be overstated. Global wildlife populations have plummeted by nearly 75 percent over the last 50 years, as reported by the World Wildlife Fund. Alarmingly, close to one million species of animals and plants teeter on the brink of extinction, which presents a significant risk to industries like fashion that depend heavily on natural resources.
What Is COP 16 and Why Does It Matter?
COP 16, or the United Nations biodiversity summit, occurs every two years, and this iteration marks the first since the landmark agreement in Canada during 2022, which aims to halt biodiversity loss by the year 2030. Frequently described as a “Paris Agreement for Nature,” the accord includes critical targets such as the protection and restoration of 30 percent of both land and oceans by 2030.
Despite these ambitious goals, progress thus far has been disheartening. More than 300 million trees are felled each year for raw materials like viscose, while the leather and palm oil supply chains remain significant drivers of deforestation. Fashion and beauty sectors are particularly culpable, utilizing natural materials ranging from cotton to shea butter, yet concurrently contributing to the degradation of the ecosystems they rely on.
The economic implications are staggering. A staggering $58 trillion, or over half of global GDP, is dependent on natural resources, emphasizing the urgency for the fashion industry to reevaluate its sourcing practices.
What Role Did Businesses Play at This Year’s Meeting?
While attendance at nature COP lags behind that at climate summits, there has been a notable uptick in business engagement. This year, over 3,000 businesses participated, compared to only 1,000 in 2022. This increased presence signifies a crucial step towards generating the necessary investments to meet the ambitious global nature goals, which require hundreds of billions of dollars each year.
Fashion companies have started taking proactive measures. Notable brands—including VF Corp, Allbirds, and Citizens of Humanity—are pioneering regenerative farming programs aimed at reducing carbon footprints and enhancing biodiversity in their supply chains. Additionally, leading groups like Kering and LVMH are committing millions to restore critical tracts of land, forests, and waters, though these initiatives still barely scratch the surface when considering the overall industry scale.
Kering’s recent announcement to adopt science-based targets for nature signifies a meaningful step forward, as they focus primarily on mitigating water usage and land impacts. Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer, emphasized in a social media post the necessity for businesses to align their nature efforts with their climate strategies.
Where Do Things Go From Here?
Setting ambitious targets is only the beginning of the journey. The fashion industry faces significant hurdles in addressing biodiversity loss, as many brands have limited visibility into the origin of their raw materials due to opaque supply chains. Furthermore, the varying conditions across different agricultural regions mean that healthy soil and water levels cannot be universally defined.
To facilitate compliance with nature-based targets, organizations like Textile Exchange are upgrading their standards for low-impact materials, helping brands substantiate their sustainability claims with credible environmental data. Investor engagement is also on the rise. A coalition managing €5.85 trillion in assets has pledged to amplify pressure on the fashion sector during COP 16 to address their environmental impacts.
Yet, amidst economic and political uncertainties, the fashion sector may struggle to prioritize long-term investments. There exists a genuine risk that the industry’s aspirations to become “nature positive” may yield mere marketing platitudes rather than substantial environmental progress.
In conclusion, the fashion industry’s roadmap to sustainability must evolve. As COP 16 highlighted, the convergence of climate and nature impacts means that businesses must take immediate, actionable steps to protect biodiversity while ensuring their supply chains are resilient and sustainable.
