As fashion trends evolve, brands with deep-rooted identities often face unique challenges and opportunities. Tapping into trendiness, particularly for heritage brands tied to specific communities, can represent a significant avenue for growth. However, this endeavor is also fraught with risks, as failing to connect with established customers could alienate a brand’s core demographic.
The barn jacket is poised to be a symbol of 2024’s fashion season. Brands ranging from Toteme to J.Crew are presenting modern interpretations of this utilitarian piece, first popularized in the 1920s. Although the style gained traction on prominent runways, its origins trace back to workwear labels, which continue adapting their aesthetics for contemporary fashion. This tide of visibility has given rise to a renaissance of interest in Western wear, highlighting brands like Lucchese, Wrangler, and Tecovas.
The cyclical nature of fashion means that elements from niche communities can quickly gain mainstream appeal. For instance, traditional workwear from brands like Carhartt and Dickies, once solely the domain of blue-collar workers, is now fashionable among urban skaters and menswear enthusiasts. In recent years, outdoor brands like Arc’teryx and Salomon have ridden the wave of “gorpcore,” where technical gear becomes a staple in city streets.
Yet, facilitating this transition from workwear to fashion is no simple task. Heritage brands often find themselves in a precarious position, trying to attract new consumers while staying true to their historical roots. Nora Kleinewillinghoefer of Kearney’s consumer practice notes, “The more cachet you have in heritage, the more sensitive your customer is in the steps you take to evolve because they can feel abandoned.” This quest to balance heritage with modernity becomes critical as fashion trends shift and consumer preferences fluctuate.
Despite fashion’s potential to drive growth, heritage brands often rely on their traditional markets for the bulk of their revenue. The challenge lies in enticing a newer generation without diluting brand values. Denise Anderson, VP of global marketing at Dickies, emphasizes, “You never want to lose who you are when you chase these trends.” A stark reminder of these pitfalls emerged when Dickies experienced a 15 percent revenue drop, attributed to overextending efforts toward a fashion-forward identity—something that did not resonate with their long-time customers.
To sustain their essence while attracting new buyers, heritage brands should focus on their unique values. Salomon, a brand synonymous with performance gear, has carved a niche in the fashion segment without losing sight of its roots. The partnership with menswear design studio JJJound showcased Salomon’s commitment to innovation while retaining the technical features integral to its shoes.
Western wear has benefitted from recent cultural phenomena, including the popularity of television series like “Yellowstone”. Brands like Lucchese, established over a century ago, are capitalizing on this momentum by diversifying their offerings to appeal to a broader audience. By creating designs featuring approachable materials and silhouettes, Lucchese aims to invite new customers into the fold without abandoning their heritage.
However, product expansion must come with a narrative—the why behind a brand’s evolution. Engaging storytelling can aid brands as they broaden their categories. By leveraging their history, brands can communicate their authority on new offerings, as demonstrated by Wrangler’s successful experiments with contemporary silhouettes while remaining rooted in its cowboy origins.
Collaborations also serve as effective platforms for brands to blend heritage with contemporary trends. The recent partnership between Wrangler and the trendy ready-to-wear line, Staud, exemplifies this approach—the balance of one brand offering heritage credibility and the other delivering fashion-savvy flair.
Another key aspect weighting heavily on brands adapting to trendiness is messaging. Preserving credibility, particularly when targeting a broader audience, hinges on how well a brand can communicate its historical significance. Nachhaltigkeit is increasingly valued among consumers, and brands that can convey authenticity through effective storytelling will likely thrive. Tanner Graham, CEO of the creative agency General Idea, suggests that brands “figure out how to present those in a modern way; put them on the right people, embed them into culture and social media.”
The path for heritage brands in fashion is littered with pitfalls and possibilities. While pursuing modernity, they must navigate the delicate landscape of retaining established customers. Understanding the evolving preferences of both new and old consumers is crucial, as many heritage companies have overestimated their knowledge of what truly attracts buyers in today’s market.
In conclusion, brands that skillfully balance their heritage while courting new audiences through well-defined values and narratives are best positioned to succeed in the ever-changing fashion landscape.
