The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute has recently announced an exciting and transformative theme for its upcoming Spring 2025 exhibition: “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” This anticipated showcase aims to honor the rich history of menswear from the perspective of the Black diaspora, with a specific focus on a concept historically vital to fashion—Black Dandyism.
Curated by Andrew Bolton, the curator-in-charge, alongside Monica Miller, a notable scholar and professor of Africana Studies, the exhibition draws inspiration from Miller’s thought-provoking book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. As the name denotes, Black Dandyism refers to a distinctive style of dress that emerged among formerly enslaved Black men during the 18th century in both the Americas and Europe. This unique fashion sensibility juxtaposes flamboyant European styles with traditional African influences, creating a vibrant tapestry of cultural expression.
The thematic exploration will not only spotlight the evolution of Black Dandyism but will also critically engage with the ways fashion has helped shape Black diasporic identities. By interrogating themes of ownership, exaggerated styles exemplified by zoot suits, and the cosmopolitan nature of Black fashion, the exhibition promises a nuanced perspective on fashion history.
Among the noteworthy contributions, the work of influential Black designers will be highlighted. The late Virgil Abloh—renowned founder of Off-White and Louis Vuitton Mens’ creative director prior to his passing—will be featured alongside other esteemed designers such as Grace Wales Bonner and Pharrell Williams, the current creative director for Louis Vuitton Men’s. Historical garments and jewellery, some dating back to the 18th century, will accompany these contemporary pieces, offering a dialogue between past and present.
Andrew Bolton emphasized the current renaissance of menswear, largely driven by Black designers who challenge and innovate, forging connections between historical references and modern interpretations. This exhibition is particularly significant in furthering the Costume Institute’s mission to diversify its collections, marking the first exhibit focused explicitly on Black Dandyism since “Bravehearts: Men in Skirts” in 2003.
Alongside the exhibition’s opening, the highly anticipated Met Gala—scheduled for May 5, 2025—will highlight this theme. Notably, the gala will be co-chaired by Pharrell Williams and other prominent figures in menswear, including Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, and A$AP Rocky. Being raised in the context of the African diaspora, Pharrell remarked on the exhibit’s significance, calling it a full-circle moment in his artistic journey.
Major sponsors for both the exhibition and the gala include prestigious names such as Louis Vuitton, Condé Nast, and Instagram, with additional support from various foundations dedicated to advancing the arts. This robust backing showcases the industry’s commitment to celebrating and highlighting Black voices and creativity in fashion.
Public viewing for “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” opens on May 10, 2025, and eagerly runs through October 26, 2025. Visitors will experience a captivating journey through fashion history that not only celebrates stylistic innovation but also critically engages with cultural narratives often overlooked in mainstream fashion discourse.
This exhibition is poised to leave a lasting legacy, not just as a highlight of The Met’s Costume Institute, but as a pivotal moment in the ongoing dialogue about race, identity, and representation in the fashion industry. As the anticipation builds, both fashion enthusiasts and scholars alike await the opportunity to explore the vibrant interplay of Black style in menswear history, paving the way for future dialogues.
