The retail landscape in downtown Manhattan is witnessing an exciting evolution, particularly within the menswear and streetwear sectors. Emerging brands are increasingly opting for brick-and-mortar stores, capitalizing on shifting consumer preferences toward in-person shopping experiences. This trend comes at a time when traditional digital marketing strategies have become less effective.
Take, for instance, the story of Angelo Baque, founder of the streetwear brand Awake. In June 2023, despite prior reluctance to open a physical storefront due to the challenges of Manhattan’s retail environment, he took the leap and opened his brand’s first shop on Orchard Street. The decision was fueled by advice from the late Virgil Abloh and the financially attractive commercial rents available post-COVID, providing a unique opportunity for brands to reclaim their space in the market.
Baque observed that his brand’s unique cut-and-sew pieces were better received in physical stores like Kith and Dover Street Market, indicating a demand for tactile experiences that online shopping could not fulfill. “The stuff that we were making at the time… were more difficult to sell on a website,” he noted. This realization underscores a broader trend: customers are seeking tangible connections with the brands they support, yearning for retail spaces that function beyond mere transaction points.
Strong currents of growth are shaping men’s retail in New York City. According to research by CBRE, a commercial real estate firm, there were 74 leasing deals inked by apparel brands between 2020 and 2023. This surge demonstrates a robust demand for physical retail setups, especially for menswear in areas historically significant for shopping. While leasing activity in Manhattan showed signs of slowing earlier this year—with occupancy decreasing and rental prices on the rise—the introduction of new brands is still vibrant. Joe Hudson, senior vice president at CBRE, emphasized that “there’s this history of menswear and apparel located in downtown destination environments where the male customer will come and shop.”
What sets the current crop of retailers apart is their desire to create spaces that offer more than just products. Many brands are integrating creative concepts to engage their customers fully. For instance, Vowels, an alternative-luxury streetwear brand, recently opened a store featuring a research library containing over 2,000 curated books. This immersive approach creates an experience akin to sitting in a sophisticated coffee shop, encouraging customers to linger and engage with the brand on a deeper level.
Similarly, streetwear brand Fugazi is working on establishing a café within their Orchard Street location, following the footsteps of successful brands like Ralph Lauren and Dover Street Market. This strategy aims to transform their store from a simple retail outlet into a full-fledged lifestyle destination that promotes community interaction.
The logical question arises: why are these brands choosing this path now? The answer lies in the realization that the traditional retail model must adapt. Baque highlighted, “The time of just opening a store, releasing products and expecting people to show up are long gone.” Retailers must continuously activate their spaces, offer unique experiences, and maintain meaningful communication with their customer base.
Despite the promise of brick-and-mortar stores, vendors face hurdles unique to this shift. For brands that began online, managing inventory and ensuring a well-stocked space presents new challenges. Baque equated opening Awake’s first store to hitting a reset button and a deep reevaluation of product selection and merchandising strategies. For instance, he started designing with an emphasis on how items would be displayed in-store, rather than simply focusing on what he personally liked.
Brands like Fugazi are also finding that in-store product presentations are vastly different from online launches. Gorji noted, “Designing and presenting new products in-store is consistently more challenging than just dropping products online.” This reconsideration extends to operational partnerships; Fugazi’s café is co-managed by friends, indicating a collaborative approach to navigating the complexities of running a retail operation.
Even as they embrace the challenges, designers feel invigorated by the rapid changes in the retail environment. In Baque’s view, the burgeoning menswear market in New York is reminiscent of the retail explosion in Los Angeles about a decade ago. “I’m happy when I see other stores open up because it just adds more to the landscape,” he said, highlighting the positive impact of community among competitors.
The increasing vibrancy of menswear retail in Manhattan illustrates a notable shift in the industry landscape. With emerging streetwear labels confidently stepping into the physical retail realm, the city is poised to become a significant hub for innovative retail experiences. Brands that adapt and evolve with their customers, creating engaging and authentic atmospheres, will undoubtedly thrive in this exciting chapter of retail history.
