Hyères, France, renowned for its artistic spirit, hosted the 39th International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories, where innovation and creativity were the order of the day. Dolev Elron, a talented menswear designer originally from Israel, caught the eye of key industry figures with his striking collection titled “Casual Turbulence.” As a junior designer at Acne Studios in Stockholm, Elron showcased his unique interpretation of denim, highlighting a refreshing approach to a classic fabric.
Elron’s collection featured wave-inspired designs that went beyond traditional silhouettes. His innovative use of digital software to deconstruct and recompose everyday garments like the 5-pocket jeans and perfecto jackets not only preserved their core functionality but also transformed them into avant-garde pieces that tell a story. The fashion jury, led by the renowned creative director of Courrèges, Nicolas di Felice, appreciated his outstanding craftsmanship and the clarity of vision evident throughout his work. On the night before the awards, Elron remarked that winning would exceed all his expectations, demonstrating a balance of humility and ambition that resonates well in the fashion community.
The context of this year’s festival underscored a significant shift in the fashion industry’s landscape. With major trends such as streetwear and blatant logomania firmly giving way to more refined and vintage aesthetics, designers are increasingly grappling with the dual challenge of standing out while ensuring their creations are marketable. Elron managed to navigate this precarious balance, offering a men’s collection that he believes is universally wearable — emphasizing that his designs are intended for all genders, which is an increasingly important perspective in today’s fashion.
Last year’s recipient of Hyères’ top honour, Igor Dieryck, has also been busy refining his craft. His focus on wearable products coupled with high-end execution has led to collaborations across the industry, including a recent capsule knitwear line available through Galeries Lafayette. Dieryck’s design philosophy revolves around ensuring that while creativity is vital, the emotional connection people have with clothing is paramount — if a design is visually striking yet impractical, adjustments must be made to enhance its wearability.
The fashion jury for this year’s festival prioritized elements such as craftsmanship, sincerity, and clarity. Di Felice pointed out that while virality in fashion can lead to increased visibility, it can also detract from the core values of craftsmanship. The danger of creating pieces solely designed for social media fame was a point of contention among jurors this year. Nevertheless, some viral concepts did receive recognitions, such as Tal Maslavi’s playful “Sugar Rush” collection. His layer-cake derby shoes stirred social media buzz and audience excitement, reminding attendees that while creativity should be functional, it can still be whimsical.
Sustainability was another vital theme this year, represented by the work of designers like Logan Monroe Goff, who received the Mercedes Benz sustainability prize for his “Asphalt Cowboy” collection. This pursuit of responsible design practices is becoming essential in fashion, reflecting a growing concern for environmental impact and ethical responsibility among consumers.
Moreover, the accessories category also celebrated creativity with standout designers such as Chiyang Duan, who presented innovative pieces such as twisted ski masks and tool cases. Meanwhile, Clara Besnard impressed the jury with her sculptural scarves made from reassembled eyeglasses, showcasing how deconstruction can breathe new life into existing materials, a principle that aligns with sustainable design philosophies.
The awards ceremony came at a time when the industry appears to be at a crossroads. As the conversation around sustainability, functionality, and creativity continues to evolve, the works produced at the Hyères festival serve as a testament to what the future of fashion can represent: innovative, inclusive, and environmentally conscious designs have begun to reshape our understanding of what fashion can be.
As we continue to witness the blend of artistic spirit and commercial viability, designers like Dolev Elron remind us of the potential for simple fabrics to transform into a canvas of self-expression and innovation. The future of fashion might just depend on how effectively the industry can harmonize traditional techniques with modern sensibilities and environmental considerations.
