LONDON — Only connect. There’s always a way. JW Anderson and Burberry are at opposite ends of the British fashion spectrum, but last season, the word “nostalgia” created a connection between the two. Jonathan Anderson found inspiration in the “grotesque everydayness” of a British sitcom from the past, reflected in the quirky designs that adorned his Soho shop. In contrast, Daniel Lee at Burberry engaged in the vital task of rendering the brand’s authentic British legacy relevant for a world often indifferent to fashion’s formality. Nostalgia acts as a key tool for him as well, weaving a tale with threads of Britain’s storied heritage.
Fast forward seven months, and “transition” now serves as the linking concept for both designers, resonating with a global audience grappling with change and uncertainty. As Anderson pondered after his Sunday show, “Where is the next decade going?” This question reverberates louder than ever as the fashion industry seeks to redefine itself.
Anderson emphasized that every fashion show must have a purpose. For him, the recent collection reflected a narrowing of focus, stripping down to the bare essentials that define quality: cashmere knits, sequins, leather, and silk. He showcased these luxurious materials in their simplest forms, designed for the modern model resembling a contemporary Twiggy. A couple of silk pieces featured text from an essay by early 20th-century art critic Clive Bell, highlighting the intersection of art and design. Yet, Anderson believed the underlying message lay in the blankness of the silk shift—a representation of a fresh start and the beginning of a new chapter.
Critics observed the collection’s perplexing minimalism, displaying an intriguing blend of futurism and purity. Models donned identical futuristic bike boots that echoed strength alongside the soft silhouettes. Inspired by nights out with friends in Northern Ireland, this collection evolved to embody a tough yet playful femininity. Meanwhile, the energetic soundtrack curated by Michel Gaubert added to the electric atmosphere.
Contrastingly, at Burberry, Daniel Lee’s presentation was less straightforward and evoked a more contemplative tone. His show, set against the stark backdrop of the National Theatre, featured a monumental installation by contemporary artist Gary Hume, referencing the classic trench coat while challenging traditional perceptions. This collaboration symbolized a shared philosophy but emphasized the distinct paths Lee and Hume navigate—Hume as an artist caters to his own visions, whereas a fashion designer like Lee must please a wider audience.
Burberry’s journey remains perilous, marked by public scrutiny and a history of missteps. However, Lee asserted that creativity persisted within the safety of his team, buoyed by the “American optimism” of its new CEO, Josh Schulman. Echoing the fruitful partnership of previous Burberry leadership that combined American strategic vision with British creativity, Lee remains cautiously hopeful.
During the show, Lee’s reinterpretations of Burberry’s iconic designs were subtle yet discerning. He presented trench coats that were lighter and cooler, decorated with elements that felt surprising yet approachable. His strategy aimed to revise the brand’s ingrained codes; the traditional Burberry check transformed from vibrant flashes to more muted expressions, prompting curiosity about consumer preferences and identity.
Burberry’s military history emerged in elongated field jackets and combat trousers, weaving a narrative of tradition and rebellion. The cinematically influenced collection also hinted at a nostalgic past; models embodied a casual glamour reminiscent of 1940s officers, elegantly defying norms.
What persists as a question for both brands is whether they are truly innovating or merely restating their legacies? For Burberry, the risk lies in over-relying on the allure of history, as pointed out by critics. As for Anderson’s collection, one might argue it can represent a pivot toward future-forward visions, even amid a climate-rich in nostalgia.
As the fashion world continues to evolve amid economic fluctuations and cultural shifts, both JW Anderson and Burberry highlight the struggle between preservation and evolution. Their responses reveal the fashion industry’s complex dynamics—where past glories may guide present practices, yet innovation is essential for survival.
In 2024, both designers are poised not just to reflect on where fashion has been but to question where it is headed next. Will the strategies of nostalgia serve as a bridge into future realms of creativity, or will the constraints of tradition hinder the exploration of new horizons?
