London Fashion Week has once again asserted itself as a vibrant hub of creativity, even amid challenging market conditions. The buzz surrounding the event may have been shadowed by a broader industry slowdown, yet the relentless spirit of London designers shone through, showcasing innovative approaches and bold expressions that keep the fashion world captivated.
As Sarah Mower documented, the narrative suggesting that London Fashion Week is losing momentum is somewhat exaggerated. The reality is that ups and downs have always been part of the fashion cycle. Designers, both established and emerging, are constantly recalibrating their strategies while maintaining their artistic integrity. This resilience is echoed in the words of designer Harris Reed, who opened this year’s event at Tate Modern, signaling a commitment to theatricality and impact in showcasing London’s fashion scene.
One of the standout presentations was from Steven Stokey Daley, whose debut womenswear collection at the Royal Academy wowed attendees, including renowned celebrity backer Harry Styles. Daley’s creations elegantly blended traditional craft with modern aesthetics, employing painted wood-beaded skirts inspired by floral arrangements to deliver a masterclass in elevated fashion. His ability to push the envelope while retaining grace exemplified what innovative fashion should embody.
In a parallel thread, Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground pushed back against the ready-to-wear model, opting instead for a more exclusive, made-to-order approach. This decision, influenced by his success in winning LVMH’s inaugural Savoir Faire Prize, illustrates how a designer can thrive by marrying luxury with bespoke tailoring, offering personal client experiences rather than mass-market products.
Moreover, the spirit of humor and playfulness permeated Olly Shinder’s collection at Fashion East. His kink-inflected uniforms, inspired by the Girl Scouts and the everyday office worker, injected much-needed wit into the London schedule, reminding attendees that fashion need not take itself too seriously. This lighthearted approach could be a refreshing antidote to the more austere displays seen in other sectors of the fashion world.
On the flip side, designer Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai took the crowd on a different journey with his flirtation with latex. His debut womenswear collection featured extravagant designs that seemed to challenge the boundaries of traditional fabric usage. Positioned alongside established names in the niche area of latex couture, like Atsuko Kudo, Harri showcased both courage and innovation, providing a spectacle that left an indelible mark on the audience.
As the new wave of designers continues to explore their identities, Johanna Parv made her mark with a collection that seamlessly blended cycle wear with high fashion. Models donned her unique gear while removing holster bags, painting a vivid image of what the future of urban fashion might look like. This merging of functionality and aesthetics encapsulates a significant shift in consumer expectations and lifestyle needs.
A more somber yet hopeful presentation came from Marco Capaldi of 16 Arlington. Emerging from personal tragedy, he presented lively beach attire characterized by feathers, raffia, and an undeniable Ibiza vibe, demonstrating how personal experiences can inform and enrich creative expression. It offered a poignant reminder of fashion’s ability to serve as both a canvas and a healing medium.
The interplay between tradition and innovation was also evident in KNWLS’ homage to fashion icons. While Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault showcased well-honed leather designs, their attempts at incorporating stretch bias-cut dresses seemed less impressive, suggesting the difficulty in balancing nostalgia with fresh perspectives.
Conversely, designers such as Priya Ahluwalia, with her printed jacquard and denim, maintained a strong aesthetic identity throughout her work, although her womenswear still seeks a perfect match with the celebrated Ahluwalia men’s line.
Moving to the bold collective displays, Roksanda Ilinčić’s collection displayed voluminous silhouettes, resonating with a sense of elevated sophistication; however, the lack of visibility from the backlit stage diminished its impact. Seeing such innovative designs in a different setting may enhance appreciation for their intricate details and artistry.
At J.W. Anderson, the collection of sharp silhouettes and inventive fabric manipulation showcased a clear intention to communicate urgency. The outfits, featuring leather tutu skirts and bubble mini dresses, delivered focused ideas wrapped in a compelling visual narrative, ensuring they left the audience intrigued.
The emotional weight of Simone Rocha’s collection was palpable as she examined performative aspects of life through her ethereal designs. Draped fabrics, oversized floral adornments, and satirical expressions communicated a deep exploration of identity and performance in contemporary society.
Erdem Moralıoğlu was another designer who delved into complex themes, referencing queer literature and offering a thoughtful mix of feminine designs alongside bespoke suits in collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton. This nuanced presentation emphasized the importance of context in fashion storytelling, tying historical and cultural references to modern paths.
Across the street in Shoreditch, Chopova Lowena’s exuberant collection featured exaggerated silhouettes peppered with humor and elements of surprise. Their playful approach, showcased through kitschy collaborations with brands like Hellmann’s, exemplified confidence in the brand’s distinct point of view.
Meanwhile, the commitment to body diversity was strong at Karoline Vitto’s presentation. By dressing sizes 8 to 20 and embracing clever designs that catered to all body types, Vitto highlighted the importance of inclusivity within a traditionally exclusive fashion space.
As the curtains fell on London Fashion Week, the overarching message was clear: resilience, creativity, and evolution define the essence of the city’s fashion scene. While economic pressures loom, London’s designers continue to innovate, challenge norms, and strive for excellence, ensuring their contributions remain vital in the larger fashion landscape.
