PARIS – Would you wait in line for two hours for a $580 bag? For the growing fanbase of French direct-to-consumer label Polène, the answer is clearly oui. Founded by three siblings in 2016, Polène has rapidly established itself as a formidable player in the luxury handbag market, with projected sales surpassing €142 million (around $153 million) in 2024. Their success illustrates a significant trend in the luxury sector, particularly among French brands that are gaining international recognition.
Despite its location on a quiet square in Paris’ 2eme arrondissement, a queue snakes around the Polène boutique, regardless of the weather. To alleviate the wait, sales clerks serve tea while they check if the desired bag is in stock — which can often be a challenge due to the surging demand. This burgeoning popularity is underscored by Polène’s recent expansion, which includes the opening of a two-story, 415-square-metre store near Piccadilly Circus in London.
The Strategy Behind Success
At the core of Polène’s strategy lies an understanding of the luxury handbag market’s evolving landscape. The brand focuses on a price point that appeals to the growing demand for affordable luxury, often defined as high-quality products priced between $250 and $500. The handbag industry has seen substantial growth in this segment over the past three years, as many established luxury brands have raised their prices to cater exclusively to the wealthiest consumers. This has created a void that Polène is effectively filling.
Antoine Mothay, CEO and co-founder, explains, “I was intrigued by the white space in the market of leather goods between luxury brands,” highlighting how Polène’s contemporary aesthetics—reminiscent of Celine’s Phoebe Philo era—set it apart from traditional luxury norms. The brand’s designs maintain a delicate balance between simplicity and originality while steering clear of overtly clichéd French aesthetics.
Fostering Customer Loyalty
An impressive 25 percent of Polène’s sales come from returning customers, a testament to the brand’s ability to cultivate loyalty. Influencer partnerships have played a crucial role in this growth, particularly when launching new collections. Influencers often feature Polène products in their content, whether they are gifted or purchased. Digital marketing strategies paired with effective in-store experiences forge a strong customer connection.
Mothay emphasizes the importance of an engaging customer journey. “The key to our success are our stores,” he notes. The physical retail presence complements Polène’s e-commerce strategies, blending online convenience with in-person interactions that enhance customer satisfaction and loyalty.
A Commitment to Quality
Quality is paramount for Polène, and this is reflected in their manufacturing processes. All bags are produced in Ubrique, a small town in Spain known for its craftsmanship in leather goods. Polène employs 700 people directly and indirectly supports another 1,500 in the local community, highlighting its social impact and commitment to regional employment.
“This vertical integration allows us to maintain strict quality control,” Mothay states. “There are lots of bad stories about quality control in luxury nowadays; for us, that’s much easier.” The emphasis on quality, coupled with a refusal to engage in wholesale distribution, has positioned Polène as a brand that prioritizes exclusivity and craftsmanship.
Future Plans and Challenges
Looking ahead, Polène aims to open five to eight stores annually in major cities worldwide, including Munich, Dubai, and Miami. The company is preparing to debut a larger flagship store on the iconic Champs-Élysées in Paris, anticipated to ease the long queues that have become commonplace in their existing locations.
However, the rapid growth also brings challenges. The brand must balance scaling production without compromising quality. Mothay acknowledges the difficulty of increasing output, emphasizing, “It takes 6 to 8 months for us to master the quality of a new bag design.” This cautious approach prioritizes the integrity of the product, ensuring that each design meets their high standards before it reaches consumers.
Conclusion
Polène’s ascent in the luxury handbag market underscores a significant shift in consumer behavior towards accessible luxury products that do not sacrifice quality or design. By focusing on customer experience, quality craftsmanship, and strategic expansion, the brand not only elevates its profile but also represents the resilience and innovation of the French fashion industry. As they continue to grow, their commitment to maintaining a strong connection with customers and delivering exceptional products remains at the forefront of their strategy.
