An anticipated auction is set for January 27, 2024, in Paris, featuring an extensive collection of early works by renowned fashion designer Martin Margiela. This event coincides with Haute Couture Week, promising to draw significant attention from fashion aficionados and collectors alike. The auction will be conducted by Kerry Taylor and Maurice Auction, marking it as the most comprehensive single auction dedicated to Margiela’s pieces to date.
This remarkable collection, owned by Angela and Elena Picozzi, consists of over 300 lots of clothing, sketches, and unique items ranging from 1988 to 1994—a pivotal period when Margiela was solidifying his status in the fashion world. The Picozzi sisters are the daughters of Graziella Picozzi, an Italian designer who recognized and supported Margiela’s visionary talent early in his career.
Among the most notable items up for auction are the designer’s iconic cigarette-shouldered suits, trousers featuring jabot bras, and innovative painted canvas jackets. Of particular interest are exquisite clear vinyl tops derived from Margiela’s influential Spring/Summer 1990 collection and a unique ‘curtain’ skirt from his Autumn/Winter 1991 show. These standout pieces are expected to garner bids of between €2,500 and €3,500 (approximately $2,600 to $3,600), alongside priests’ cassocks from the Autumn/Winter 1992 collection.
The auction will also highlight collaborative designs from a project called “!” between Graziella Picozzi and Margiela, which spanned four creative seasons before he launched his eponymous brand. The sisters shared that they always viewed these items as vital threads in the fabric of fashion history, deserving of preservation and study. “Over time, we realized how important it is that Martin’s talent and vision be enhanced, studied, told, and, why not, worn,” they stated in a public announcement regarding the sale.
Margiela, known for his avant-garde and sometimes controversial styles, has seen a resurgence in the auction scene in recent years. His pieces frequently appear for sale, reflecting heightened interest from both private collectors and museums. Major auction houses like Sotheby’s previously featured over 200 pieces from private collections in 2019 and 2021, indicating a growing demand for the designer’s works. As Margiela exit the public fashion stage in 2009, the valuation of his pieces has only increased.
The auction provides an intriguing opportunity for participants to acquire pieces that are likely to become significant cultural artifacts. Various items might wind up in the esteemed collections of museums or become prized possessions for private buyers. Items linked to celebrities or that featured prominently in television have a track record of fetching very high prices at auction, often surprising bidders and collectors alike.
In addition to the aesthetic and historical significance of these pieces, the event is likely to stimulate a substantial amount of discussion and engagement around Margiela’s influence on contemporary fashion. As the industry grapples with issues of sustainability and authenticity, revisiting the contributions of designers like Margiela can enrich dialogues about the future of fashion.
As the fashion world gears up for this landmark auction, it is essential to recognize how pivotal events of this nature can impact the fashion industry at large. They serve as reminders of the industry’s past innovations while also providing insights into current market trends. Collectively, they underscore the importance of preserving fashion history for future generations, allowing us to appreciate the creative journeys of influential figures within the industry.
With each piece auctioned, there exists a story waiting to be told—a narrative woven into the very fabric of fashion history. The upcoming sale in January represents not just an opportunity for acquisition but an accessible means to engage with and reflect upon the ever-changing landscape of fashion.