Can “Dupe” Fragrance Brands Make The Real Thing?

Dossier, a brand recognized for its affordable fragrance imitations or ‘dupes’, has decided to branch out and introduce its own original scents. But can these originals rival the popularity of its imitations?

The allure of dupes is that they offer smell-alike versions of high-priced luxury products at a fraction of the cost, making beauty accessible to a broader audience. High-end fragrances retail for hundreds of dollars, pricing out many consumers. However, this gap has allowed brands like Dossier to flourish.

Launched in 2019 in New York, Dossier offers over 90 dupe scents including Le Labo Santal 33, YSL Black Opium, and Chanel No.5, all priced under $30. According to founder Sergio Tache and vice president Ines Guien, their brand aims to democratize the fragrance industry.

Now, Dossier is widening its focus to include in-house perfumes, branded as “originals”, a significant shift from its traditional “impressions”. Since initially launching originals in 2023, the brand now offers 13, with an additional eight slated for release by year-end. These will be introduced during “Dossier drop day” events to build excitement.

Despite these efforts, making consumers who come for the dupes stay for the originals is a challenge. Even elf Beauty, known for its budget-friendly versions of popular cosmetics, still faces the perception of being merely a dupe brand. No fragrance brand has successfully moved from dupes to originals yet.

The luxury fragrance market complicates matters with its strategies to combat duplication. While it’s tough to trademark scents, some companies invest in molecular patents or use ingredient blurring technology to prevent product breakdowns. Others, like Glossier with its “You” perfume, choose to keep scent notes undisclosed as part of their marketing strategy.

Dossier’s originals aim to showcase the brand’s creativity. Their recent New York event highlighted this, seeing a sold-out crowd eager to try the new scents. Also, in line with their goal to democratize perfume, they’re launching “Free The Musk” to encourage discussions on patented ingredients.

While challenging, the transition to original scents is a natural step in Dossier’s journey. By maintaining affordability, the brand hopes to extend its appeal beyond just being a dupe brand, aiming to offer a diverse and enduring product line. As Tache notes, “The North Star is to create perfumes that are affordable for the 99 percent… But we really want to be more than [dupes], and having our own collection is really important to us.”