PARIS — Alessandro Michele’s inaugural runway show for Valentino was hosted in a dreamy venue dubbed the “Pavillon des Folies.” This setting provided an enchanting backdrop that reflected Michele’s unique vision and reinvigorated approach to fashion. The show, however, anticipated criticism that often circulates on social media, particularly reflections on Michele’s established identities through whimsical critiques, with the ever-popular “G word” expected to arise in discussions surrounding his work.
Despite the heightened scrutiny, Michele’s confidence was palpable. His Valentino presentation could not replicate the groundbreaking impact of his Gucci debut, which captured the fashion world’s imagination with a transformative collection that catered to desires that had yet to be expressed. Instead, this recent collection communicated a sense of luxurious lightness, employing exquisite craftsmanship along with Michele’s distinctive aesthetic language, reminiscent of his renowned past at Gucci but evolving into a new, sophisticated narrative.
Michele’s return to the spotlight comes after a significant absence, during which the fashion world oscillated through periods defined by “quiet luxury.” This transitory phase has set the stage for Michele, who embodies excitement in fashion. His collections have historically evoked strong emotional responses, a quality greatly needed in the current landscape. Jacopo Venturini, the CEO who facilitated Michele’s move to Valentino, articulated an urgent desire to resurrect desires and emotions within the fashion industry. Michele, a master of invoking such sensations, delivered.
Upon entering the venue on that memorable afternoon, guests were enveloped by an artistic arrangement of furniture, art pieces, and sculptures. Draped in skeleton-like gauze, the space created an otherworldly effect, blurring lines and enhancing the dreamlike quality of the show. Guests stood on a shattered mirror floor that amplified the ethereal nature of the collection beneath soaring ceilings—a reminiscent nod to a creative philosophy birthed within Valentino’s storied history. Michele himself expressed a profound connection with Valentino’s archives during his tenure, absorbing inspirations that manifested in an abundant display of ruffles, bows, brocades, and glittering embroidery.
Michele’s ability to meld luxurious elements with bohemian flair continues to resonate strongly. His recent collection included accessories bedecked with fringe and intricate embroidery, reminding the audience of the ever-present allure of opulence. The iconic “V” logo featured prominently, standing out for its simultaneous recognition and subtle sophistication—a decision that carefully straddles the line between bold branding and understated elegance.
This presentation could be seen as the culmination of Michele’s long-standing appreciation for Valentino’s legacy. He has drawn heavily from the design house’s ethos, resulting in a presentation that confirms his distinctive voice. As established with his previous works, Michele teamed up with Giovanni Attili to construct a manifesto-like narrative that accompanied the collection. This collaboration produced poetic descriptions that spark creativity like, “the magnificence of a finely embroidered dress” and “the pursuit of fireflies seeking love.” Such writing not only complements the garments but also adds a deeper layer of meaning to the overall experience.
The collection was a tapestry of exquisite garments that flowed seamlessly down the catwalk. Colors were strategically chosen to evoke a sense of nostalgia intertwined with modern-day luxury. The intricate detailing on items showcased not just Michele’s creativity, but also his commitment to excellence in craftsmanship—a hallmark of Valentino’s rich heritage.
In witnessing Michele’s first offering as the creative head of Valentino, it became apparent that he masterfully redefined luxury once more. This collection serves as both an homage to the brand’s storied past and a bold declaration of Michele’s vision for its future. The highlighted emotion and desire within the pieces created a captivating narrative that will no doubt shape future collections and discussions in fashion.
Alessandro Michele’s Valentino debut serves as a powerful reminder of the continual evolution of fashion—a universe where each collection tells a story, nurtures desire, and ultimately celebrates the artistry behind every stitch and silhouette.
Michele’s venture can be viewed as a revival of romance in fashion, offering a spectacle that many enthusiasts are eager to experience. His journey invites audiences to envision their own narratives woven into the luxurious fabric of Valentino, forever changing the way we perceive not only the brand but also contemporary fashion as a whole.
