The fashion industry is witnessing a remarkable transformation with Tory Burch at the forefront. As she prepares for her Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcase at New York Fashion Week, discussions around Burch’s updated aesthetic, known as the ‘Toryssance’, highlight her commitment to evolve while maintaining brand loyalty.
A few days before the show, Burch is busy maneuvering through the preparations in her Flatiron office, where her workspace is undergoing a significant makeover. Gone are the vibrant decorations typical of her early years; instead, a minimalist approach with lighter colors and accents takes precedence. This shift aims to reflect her brand’s new era, which has been in development since the launch of her Shaker collection in Spring/Summer 2021.
Previously renowned for its global-traveller glam inspired by the Sixties and Seventies, Tory Burch’s brand is now characterized by a more modern, elevated aesthetic. This evolution was not merely an aesthetic change; it was a means to reconnect with both loyal customers and attract a younger demographic.
Revamped Image
Burch’s new runway aesthetic has successfully permeated her broader brand strategy, affecting everything from shoes and bags to retail spaces and advertising campaigns. While she acknowledges the buzz surrounding the term ‘Toryssance,’ Burch remains humble. “I don’t think about it,” she stated, “I’m flattered that people are seeing what we’re doing and appreciating that it’s relevant.”
Historically, the Tory Burch brand thrived, generating nearly $2 billion in sales; however, the need for creativity and relevance is continually important. A recent article in The New York Times posed the question, “That’s Tory Burch?” which emphasized the surprising shift from stagnation to a refreshing revitalization.
Feeling increasingly disconnected from her previous brand narrative, Burch recognized the necessity for a change about ten years ago when she started dating her future husband, Pierre-Yves Roussel. Roussel, whose experience in leading luxury brands under the LVMH Fashion Group has proved invaluable, transitioned from a day-to-day operational role to CEO of Tory Burch in 2019, freeing Burch to focus on her creative vision.
Building a Creative Circle
In recent years, Burch surrounded herself with an eclectic mix of creative minds who inject fresh perspectives into the brand. Notable names like stylist Brian Molloy and designers Chris Peters, formerly of Creatures of the Wind, signify Burch’s desire to keep a pulse on trend-driven fashion while exploring innovative designs. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, for instance, featured groundbreaking pieces such as spacey mini-dresses and unique cow earrings, which resonated with critics and customers alike.
In her Spring/Summer 2025 presentation, Burch emphasized a balance of wearability and creativity, drawing inspiration from sports like ballet and judo. She cleverly crafted an ambiance for the show at the former Domino Sugar Factory in Williamsburg, transforming it into an indoor pool-like setting. The collection cleverly integrated traditional motifs with modern structures, exploring artistic interpretations via fabrics that referenced water movements and swimmers.
A Delicate Balance
Navigating the line between innovation and tradition can be tricky. Burch recognizes the importance of catering to her longstanding customer base while also engaging new ones. “I really loved the business we built and really appreciate our customer,” she reflected. Signature items such as the Miller sandal remain reasonably priced under $200, maintaining accessibility while premium products like the Lee Radziwill handbag reach up to $1,400.
One product generating significant excitement is the relaunched Reva ballet flat, a style iconic to the brand. Initially withdrawn from inventory in 2017, its return symbolizes a tribute to Burch’s roots while adapting to contemporary designs. Extensive planning went into revamping the classic silhouette to resonate with the modern shopper’s sensibilities.
Future Growth and Exploration
As Burch prepares for a potential IPO, she expresses her gratitude towards her experienced partners who continue to guide strategic decisions. Her focus remains on nurturing an inclusive culture within her company. “I didn’t want a bitchy fashion environment,” she asserted, emphasizing her commitment to creating a welcoming space amid the prevalent chaos in the broader world market.
Burch believes in resilience, advocating for diversification in production methods. This not only protects her brand from over-reliance on specific regions but also promotes a flexible, responsive business model. “Do I think the market will come back? Yes,” she says, with confidence in the cyclical nature of fashion trends.
As she takes further strides in refining her label’s identity and bridging new with old, Burch’s journey embodies a beautiful balancing act—one that continues to inspire many within the fashion community.
Tory Burch stands as a testament to the importance of adapting amidst change, proving that success does not always lie in constant expansion, but often in finding a harmonious blend of innovation, tradition, and authenticity.
