As Milan Fashion Week unfolds, the pressures on designers become palpably evident, particularly for Sabato De Sarno at Gucci and Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino. Both leaders grapple with significant legacies that overshadow their creative directions. However, their approaches toward these challenges dramatically differ, creating a distinct narrative within the vibrant runway scene.
Sabato De Sarno, designed Gucci’s Spring 2025 collection under the theme of “Casual Grandeur.” This concept draws inspiration from iconic figures such as Jackie Kennedy-Onassis, whose elegance on the Amalfi Coast resonates with the idea of effortless sophistication. De Sarno’s mood board captured these references beautifully; it showcased a collage featuring images of Kennedy alongside prominent figures like Andrzej Wajda and Franca Sozzani’s legendary Vogue Italia cover from 1988. Yet, through the lens of budding creativity, De Sarno contends with heightened expectations that inadvertently tether him to his predecessors’ illustrious legacies.
While remaining devoted to his artistic vision, which he insists is unchanged since he started, the challenge lies in balancing innovation with reverence for Gucci’s storied past. His collection displayed a commitment to tailoring, lingerie-inspired aesthetics, and silhouettes reminiscent of the 1960s. The garments, particularly tailored pieces crafted from fine grey wool/silk, exemplify his dedication to precise construction. However, when models appeared in casual sportswear outfits, the notion of “Casual Grandeur” seemed diluted, misrepresented by relaxed track-like silhouettes. It raises the question: has De Sarno’s self-imposed pressure to meet monumental expectations rendered him his own worst critic?
His collection had moments of promise, particularly at the close of the show, where classically tailored coats took center stage. Five different styles, including trenches and evening coats, each featured an exaggerated volume that hinted at theatricality while maintaining functionality. The pairing with minimalistic cotton tanks and jeans pointed to accessible elegance—a necessary balance in contemporary fashion. This contrasts well with previous iterations of Gucci, known for exuberance and flamboyance under previous creative directors.
De Sarno’s fixation on fringe emerged in striking pieces embellished with metallic beading, further cementing his predilection for coats and outerwear. However, his tendency to lean heavily on established aesthetics raises concerns about failing to venture into uncharted artistic territory—how can a designer who has nothing to lose best capitalize on that freedom?
On the other end of the spectrum is Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino. Appiolaza approaches his role with irreverent charm, a signature that nods to Franco Moschino’s playful legacy. His spring/summer 2025 collection, whimsically titled “A Piece of Sheet,” encapsulated a provocative humor through clever staging. Models draped in bed sheets walked as laundry dangled over an alluring runway backdrop, evoking domesticity while glancing towards high fashion.
Through creative ingenuity, Appiolaza constructs garments that redefine the ordinary—concepts that resonate in an age where fashion grapples with sustainability and authenticity. His collection features staples transformed by humor, such as a t-shirt adorned with a pen-drawn sailor’s kerchief. This playful juxtaposition of familiar household motifs results in intricate yet accessible designs that remember Moschino’s heart, effectively answering the challenge of legacy.
Appiolaza’s collection unfolded with a celebration of creativity as he paid homage to influential figures in British fashion, such as Terry Jones and Judy Blame, wrapping their stories into vibrant prints and eclectic patterns. By incorporating colloquial text into the designs—messages like “WEAR AND CARE”—he fosters dialogue around fashion’s perennial connection to personal storytelling. His youthfulness and audacity position Moschino not only as a fashion label but as a continually evolving narrative.
In reviewing the two collections, Milan Fashion Week reflects an interplay of pressures and privilege when reinventing iconic brands. De Sarno’s Gucci emerges from a pool of excellence that inevitably comes with legacy weight, while Appiolaza’s Moschino seems progressively liberated, redefining expectations through humor and spontaneity. Each designer’s journey unfolds against the backdrop of a rapidly changing industry, where the only constants are change itself and the necessity to connect with audiences personally and meaningfully.
Fashion Week in Milan does not merely showcase collections but simultaneously narrates stories of creative resilience, the weight of legacies, and the relentless search for self in an industry ripe with history and innovation. As audiences embrace the creativity demonstrated on the runway, they are treated not only to beautiful garments but also to broader reflections on how designers navigate the spectacular pressures of their roles.
