Theophilio, a burgeoning name in the fashion world, is making its return to New York Fashion Week after a three-season hiatus. Under the leadership of designer Edvin Thompson, the New York-based label is now in a much healthier financial position, allowing it to consider a broader supply chain expansion. This change in fortunes follows a challenging period, marked by a scarcity of resources and sponsorships that had previously curtailed the brand’s runway ambitions.
During his last showcase at New York Fashion Week in September 2022, Thompson epitomized the struggles faced by many independent designers, garnering attention without achieving sustainable business success. Despite being recognized as an American Emerging Designer by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2021, the brand found itself in the red financially. Thompson candidly shared that without the CFDA prize money, he might not have been able to put on a show at all.
The withdrawal from the bustling fashion week calendar was not without its silver linings. Thompson describes the past year away from the spotlight as a “blessing in disguise.” It provided him the opportunity to build the underlying infrastructure necessary for a fashion brand’s success. He opened a new studio in New York’s Financial District and tackled the less glamorous aspects of his business, including the hiring of an accountant and the establishment of a clear operating strategy. These steps have enabled him to conduct a comprehensive assessment of how to scale the business effectively.
“This has helped with the assessment of scaling and the assessment of doing a show again,” Thompson noted. “It’s possible for us to do a show again because this is where the funds are coming from now and we understand it. We have an aerial view of it.” Such strategic planning is indicative of a long-term vision. Rather than rushing back into the spotlight every season, Thompson indicates that he might not participate in every show, prioritizing business viability over visibility.
This renewed structure has allowed Theophilio to reach break-even status for the first time, with sales bolstered by wholesale operations and collaborations with celebrity clients. With the anticipation of increased exposure for buyers, media, and stylists at the upcoming runway show—scheduled for September 9 at the Freehand Hotel—Thompson’s team is also planning a special dinner event to complement the runway.
However, the prospect of increased demand is accompanied by tangible concerns regarding production capacity. Theophilio has faced challenges in meeting the media requests for samples and celebrity loans for their anticipated colorful dresses and sleek leather pieces. “As often as we say yes to loans and press pulls, we often have to say no because we don’t have the capacity,” Thompson explained.
Despite the existing hurdles, Thompson is exploring new manufacturing relationships, especially with suppliers overseas. Currently, all apparel production takes place in New York City, where operating costs are notoriously high. For instance, a $50,000 wholesale order would require a significant upfront payment, adding pressure on cash flow. By potentially partnering with a factory in China, and possibly seeking additional financial support for upcoming orders, Theophilio aims to align its production strategies with its marketing efforts.
The upcoming spring/summer 2025 collection, titled “Shaunie” after Thompson’s childhood nickname, promises to be an embodiment of personal expression rooted in his Jamaican heritage. This collection, which will feature sequins, leathers, headpieces, and signature graffiti prints, aims to celebrate individuality and confidence. Notably, Sandals, a Caribbean resort operator, is set to sponsor the collection’s showcase, signaling a strategic connection between the brand and its roots.
While Thompson understands that not showcasing each season is a potential shift in the industry, he recognizes the importance of representation during New York Fashion Week. As many large fashion companies pull back their commitments to diversity and inclusion, Thompson is determined to ensure that designers of color are seen and heard. “Representation is so important and I don’t take that for granted,” he affirmed. “It’s important for us to fill the room and not just create a very small space in the corner.”
Theophilio’s re-emergence at New York Fashion Week is not just a personal milestone for Thompson but also a symbolic moment for the fashion industry. The brand illustrates that success involves the intricate interplay of resilience, strategic planning, and a commitment to representation. As the fashion landscape evolves, designers like Thompson are paving the way for a more inclusive future — one that embraces diverse voices and visions.
