Paris Fashion Week continues to captivate audiences with standout presentations from industry visionaries like Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Their latest collections breathe new life into classic forms while pushing the boundaries of contemporary aesthetics.
At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson’s inventive spirit was heralded by a striking bronze bird sculpture by Tracey Emin, placing the audience at a figurative bird’s eye view of creativity. Anderson characterized his recent works as “exercises in reduction,” hinting at a deeper exploration into the essence of fashion. He introduced archetypes that invite viewers to engage with garments differently—“How do you wear that? How do you sit on it?” These provocative questions set the tone for his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Central to this collection was a remarkable hoop skirt fabricated from lightweight floral georgette, reminiscent of the prepared crinoline sets of the past. The delicate fabric was ingeniously weighted with fine chain, granting it a distinct movement that sets it apart from typical skirt designs. This innovative approach ensured that the skirt retained an almost ethereal quality, gracefully undulating with its wearer.
In addition to the standout skirts, Anderson’s presentation featured a series of long-sleeved sequined minidresses created through a fascinating process of 3D knitting. This technique allowed for sequins to be arranged flat, achieving a texture that echoed the natural world, reminiscent of crushed shells. If his London show evoked the youthful spirit of Twiggy, the Paris showcase radiated the classic allure of Edie Sedgwick, channeling a distinct 1960s vibe.
Anderson’s playful nod to modern culture was evident in his “tourist art” souvenir t-shirts. In a blend of high and low cultures, he emblazoned shirts with the names of seminal composers like Mozart and Chopin, presented on feathers—a nostalgic touch to couture techniques. He noted that such garments provide an experiential link; much like a museum or concert, you feel the impulse to carry part of the moment home with you.
A unique and symbolic element of the show was the ring attached to guests’ invitations, inscribed with “Loewe 1846,” symbolizing commitment. This connects seamlessly to Anderson’s recent focus on refinement rather than continual evolution. He noted, “As a designer, you are always looking to the future, and it sometimes takes a long time for the audience to catch up.” A marked improvement was his new navy suit—a tailored ensemble that combined a fitted jacket with voluminous trousers, indicating a noteworthy leap in Loewe’s craftsmanship.
Meanwhile, Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli struck a more exuberant chord, with an enticing call for “loud luxury.” Known for his work in haute couture, Roseberry’s ambition was to demonstrate that luxury can indeed be commercially viable beyond the red carpet. His inspiring collection, aptly named “Future Vintage,” is designed to be timeless, intended for future generations.
Roseberry’s vision for wearable simplicity was manifested in unconstructed tailoring, featuring familiar pieces like a classic white button-down shirt and a tank top, albeit reinterpreted as hourglass bodysuits. His perception was that fashion should be as effortless as pulling items from a suitcase. He revived the grandeur traditionally associated with haute couture through pieces like a flamboyant jacket crafted from eelskin and oversized batwing sleeves—an amusing take on modern athletic wear.
The collection reached its crescendo with a stunning ensemble: a floor-sweeping tuxedo coat gracefully paired with Schiaparelli’s foot-shaped slip-ons. Such explorations in surrealism echo the brand’s heritage while appealing to the current fashion zeitgeist.
Both Anderson and Roseberry are not merely showcasing clothes; they are harnessing fashion’s historical dialogue with culture. Their collections resonate with contemporary audiences, reflecting deep narratives while preserving the artistry of couture.
As the Paris Fashion Week unfolds, it is evident that innovation is at the forefront. Not only do designers like Anderson and Roseberry challenge traditional norms, but they weave intricate stories that keep the essence of fashion vibrant and relevant. It is an era where every garment has the potential to evoke a memory or create a new experience.
