Offering sizes 00 to 40, DTC brand Universal Standard has seen continued demand for plus-size products despite the ubiquity of weight-loss drugs. Now, the New York-based label is taking on new markets through a series of travelling trunk shows, no stores needed.

Universal Standard’s value proposition has not changed since the brand launched in 2015: high-quality fashion that fits every woman, from size 00 to 40.

The New York-based label has stuck to this principle even as the number of brands supporting body diversity has dwindled in recent years. However, it’s never faced a challenge like Ozempic.

The usage of this weight-loss drug, and others like it, is surging, leading some forecasters to question whether today’s size ranges might someday be outdated. AI-based forecasting company Impact Analytics found in a report published earlier this year that in New York’s affluent Upper East Side neighbourhood, sales of women’s shirts in small sizes increased in 2024 by 12%, while sales of larger sizes decreased by the same rate.

Polina Veksler, chief executive and co-founder of Universal Standard, remains unfazed. The brand has not seen any changes in size demand, and its most popular size remains medium, or sizes 18-20. The brand recently launched a new retail strategy, in which teams of stylists fly to different cities every weekend for private shopping appointments. The strategy is one reason why sales are up 20% this year, even as weight loss drugs become cheaper and easier to acquire.

“We’re living in a time when cultural trends are reverting back to promoting old and unrealistic standards,” Veksler said. “But despite this setback, I’m certain that the future of fashion is rooted in size inclusivity. Our customers are there, and will continue to be there.”

Universal Standard’s biggest strength — its assortment of sizes — has always been its biggest weakness. The wide range of options makes fashion accessible to women historically underserved by the industry. However, it’s every merchandiser’s nightmare to allocate enough floor space to carry 22 different sizes for every style.

“When we first launched, we did try to explore wholesale with major retailers and we quickly learned that most retailers refused to carry our full size range,” said Veksler, who founded the brand with the late Alex Waldman.

At one point, Universal Standard operated five of its own stores across the US, but shuttered all but the New York location when the pandemic struck. Without storefronts, Veksler sought out creative solutions.

The answer was “Universal Standard on Tour,” a travelling trunk show concept that the brand rolled out in 2022. The company books private appointments with shoppers in advance, allowing them to try nearly every style. Customers then place their orders online.

Last year, the brand visited 54 cities. This year, it’s on track to hit 80. The Tour generates about 15% of revenue and has cut marketing costs by at least 30%. Purchases from the trunk show are, on average, three times higher in value than online orders and return rates are lower.

“This is a way to have a retail presence but without the overhead of renting a store,” Veksler said. “With a store, it could take up to two years to be profitable. This allows us to be profitable with retail from day one.”

Universal Standard is not immune to the difficulties that come with producing plus-size fashion. The concept of body positivity made great strides in the past decade. In the 2010s, fashion shows finally cast plus-size models, and early adopters enjoyed a certain prestige. The market itself was dominated by major mass players like Lane Bryant and Old Navy.

Universal Standard was one of a handful of plus-size start-ups such as Eloquii, Dia & Co and 11 Honoré that raised venture capital to carve out a new category for more premium plus-size options. But as interest in the plus-size category swelled, operational challenges persisted. Providing a more extensive range of sizes posed challenges in inventory planning and in production.

Many brands that embraced inclusive-sizing did not sustain their efforts for long. In 2022, 11 Honoré, a luxury plus-size platform, was sold to Dia & Co. In the past year, both Dia & Co and Eloquii, owned by Walmart since 2018, were acquired by conglomerate FullBeauty Brands.

Ozempic poses an even larger threat to the market. But Veksler said size fluctuation has always been normal for her customers. In April, the brand expanded its exchange program, offering free size-based exchanges. Over 400 products are eligible.

To further scale, the company is seeking a major retail partner with a large footprint of stores to host Universal Standard’s styling appointments permanently.

“With a partner like Nordstrom or Anthropologie,” Veksler said, “We can tap into the $100 billion [plus-size] market and help large retailers embrace size inclusivity.”