On the fifth day of New York Fashion Week (NYFW), a contingent of models chose to forgo walking the runway to advocate for a significant legislative measure—the Fashion Workers Act. This event unfolded dramatically in Midtown Manhattan, where over 100 letters advocating for the bill were hand-delivered to New York Governor Kathy Hochul’s office. The letters, composed by prominent models like Amber Valletta and Irina Shayk, urged the governor to sign the act that aims to protect models from exploitation and regulate industry practices.
The Fashion Workers Act has been in limbo since it passed both legislative bodies in New York State in July, awaiting the governor’s endorsement. Failing to enact this legislation means that models must enter a new fashion week without “basic protections,” according to Sara Ziff, founder of Model Alliance. This nonprofit champions the rights and safety of models, advocating for their fair treatment in an industry marked by power imbalances.
Senator Brad Hoylman-Sigal, who introduced the bill in March 2022, indicated that Hochul is expected to sign it before the year’s end. However, activists made it clear that time is of the essence. “Every day that she doesn’t, more models will experience abuse, wage theft, and human trafficking,” Ziff added.
The event gained traction as models gathered outside the governor’s office holding placards with messages such as “This NYFW, give models labor rights” and “Governor Hochul, please sign the FWA.” Their presence was a stark reminder that the glitz of the fashion world often conceals a darker reality. Models frequently face uncertain payment structures, leaving many to leave NYC burdened with debt without assurances about their earnings.
Political activism has a notable place in this season’s NYFW. Just days before, the Council of Fashion Designers of America teamed up with Vogue to encourage voter registration through a non-partisan march across Manhattan. Additionally, various brands, such as the womenswear label Area, used their platform to promote social causes, showcasing collections that speak to reproductive justice and donating to related organizations.
A Broken System
If signed into law, the Fashion Workers Act would institute essential protections for models and creative professionals across the industry. The legislation mandates that agencies such as IMG Models provide clear communication regarding compensation and job specifications. Historically, these management agencies have wielded considerable power over the models they represent, often negotiating compensation without transparency. This imbalance can lead to exploitation.
The act allows models to file complaints against agencies for issues including delayed payments. Moreover, it mandates that talent managers and brand clients must obtain explicit consent from models before using their likeness in digital formats produced through artificial intelligence, a significant step towards protecting artists’ rights in a rapidly changing industry.
One impactful testimonial came from model Jacob Aguilar, who shared their harrowing experience of being owed approximately $50,000 by their management agency for work completed on a campaign. Despite the brand having processed payment, Aguilar received only a fraction and had to contend with tax returns reflecting an inflated income. “I felt hopeless,” Aguilar stated, highlighting the financial and emotional turmoil that can impact models navigating these challenges alone.
Senator Hoylman-Sigal emphasized the economic implications of the Fashion Workers Act, noting that New York City risks losing talent to other major fashion capitals like Milan and Paris. He pointed to recent McKinsey reports, which indicate concerning trends in employment within New York’s fashion sector. “The way to recruit more talent is to ensure their rights are recognized and protected as workers,” he noted.
Support for the Fashion Workers Act extends beyond models to include organizations like the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the Garment Worker Center. Unfortunately, the response from major fashion brands remains muted. As many celebrate the visual aspects of the industry during fashion week, Aguilar asserts that underlying issues of wage theft and exploitation persist. “The fashion industry disguises wage theft, tax fraud, and human trafficking behind fresh faces from around the world that come here seeking opportunities just to get taken advantage of,” they remarked.
As the models continue their campaign during NYFW, their calls for reform resonate deeply within an industry often critiqued for its lack of accountability. The outcome hinges on the swift action of Governor Hochul. The issue at hand is more than just a piece of legislation; it represents a vital movement toward recognizing and rectifying the longstanding injustices that many models face in their pursuit of success.
